Amigurumi Dinosaur Free Crochet Pattern
This big brontosaurus is the tallest amigurumi I've made so far! It was originally for an amigurumi pattern design contest, and after a few little tweaks to the shaping, I've decided to release the crochet pattern for free!
If you'd like to make some smaller (and quicker) dinosaurs, take a look at my stegosaurus pattern, triceratops pattern, and dinosaurs pattern set.
Amigurumi Dinosaur Free Pattern
This dinosaur's head, neck, and body are crocheted all in one piece, from top to bottom. The snout, legs, and tail are made separately and sewn in place. To make this amigurumi more kid-friendly, I used black yarn to embroider the eyes, but you can use buttons, beads, or safety eyes if you prefer.
Difficulty: Easy
This pattern uses only basic single crochet stitches, but be sure to read the pattern carefully so your increases and decreases end up in the right place. You can use stitch markers to help you count the stitches and rows. If you're new to amigurumi, get a free copy of my beginner's guide when you sign up for my monthly newsletter.
Size:
Using medium (worsted) weight yarn and a 3.75 mm (F) crochet hook, your dinosaur will be about 24 cm (9.5 in) tall. However, exact gauge isn't important, and you can easily adjust the size by using thicker or thinner yarn. For example, I made a 40 cm (15.8 in) tall dinosaur using two strands of medium weight yarn and a 6 mm (J) hook.
You will need:
• Medium (worsted) weight yarn in main colour - about 50 grams / 130 m (142 yds) for the smaller dinosaur. I used Lion Brand Mandala Tweed yarn.
• 3.75 mm (F) crochet hook
• Black yarn for the eyes
• Toy stuffing
• Yarn needle
• Pins (optional)
• Stitch markers (optional)
Abbreviations (US crochet terms):
R - round(s)
ch(s) - chain(s)
st(s) - stitch(es)
sc - single crochet
sc2tog - single crochet 2 together
Pattern
Head, neck, and body:
This pattern uses increases and decreases to add shaping to the neck. Make sure to read the pattern carefully so that the stitches end up in the right place. You can mark the end of each round with a stitch marker to make counting easier.
Work in the round, without joining rounds.
Using main colour yarn, start with an adjustable ring.
R1: 6 sc in the ring.
R2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)
R3: (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) 6 times. (18 sts)
R4: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) 6 times. (24 sts)
R5: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts) 6 times. (30 sts)
R6: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) 6 times. (36 sts)
R7-12: Sc in each st around, for 6 rounds. (36 sts per round)
R13: (sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) twice, sc in next 18 sts. (38 sts)
R14: Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 23 sts. (40 sts)
R15: Sc in next 24 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts. (38 sts)
R16: Sc in next 24 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts. (36 sts)
R17-30: Sc in each st around, for 14 rounds. (36 sts per round)
R31: Sc in next 26 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st. (38 sts)
R32: Sc in each st around. (38 sts)
R33: Sc in next 27 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st. (40 sts)
R34: Sc in each st around. (40 sts)
R35: Sc in next 9 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts. (40 sts)
R36: Sc in each st around. (40 sts)
R37: Sc in next 9 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 21 sts. (38 sts)
R38: Sc in each st around. (38 sts)
R39: Sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 20 sts. (36 sts)
R40-42: Sc in each st around, for 3 rounds. (36 sts per round)
Add some stuffing to the head and neck, then continue with the rest of the pattern.
R43: Sc in next 5 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) 6 times, sc in next 19 sts. (42 sts)
R44: Sc in next 5 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) 6 times, sc in next 19 sts. (48 sts)
R45: Sc in next 5 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts) 6 times, sc in next 19 sts. (54 sts)
R46: Sc in next 5 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) 6 times, sc in next 19 sts. (60 sts).
R47-56: Sc in each st around, for 10 rounds. (60 sts per round)
R57: (sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts) 6 times. (54 sts)
R58: (sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts) 6 times. (48 sts)
R59: (sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts) 6 times. (42 sts)
R60: (sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts) 6 times. (36 sts)
R61: (sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts) 6 times. (30 sts)
R62: (sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts) 6 times. (24 sts)
R63: (sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts) 6 times. (18 sts)
Stuff the body, making sure it is nice and puffy.
R64: (sc2tog, sc in next st) 6 times. (12 sts)
R65: (sc2tog) 6 times. (6 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing, and finish off. Add more stuffing if needed, the sew the hole closed.
Snout:
Work in the round, without joining rounds.
Using main colour yarn, chain 5.
R1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 chs, 3 sc in final ch. Rotate your work so that you can crochet back down the bottom of the starting chain to make an oval shape. Sc in next 2 spaces, 2 sc in final space. (10 sts)
R2: 2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in each of the next 2 sts. (16 sts)
R3: 2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 2 sts, (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) twice. (22 sts)
R4: Sc in each st around. (22 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing, and finish off.
Legs (make 4):
Work in the round, without joining rounds.
Using main colour yarn, start with an adjustable ring.
R1: 6 sc in the ring.
R2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)
R3: (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) 6 times. (18 sts)
R4-5: Sc in each st around, for 2 rounds. (18 sts per round)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing, and finish off.
Tail:
Work in the round, without joining rounds.
Using main colour yarn, start with an adjustable ring.
R1: 4 sc in the ring.
R2: (2 sc in next st, sc in next st) twice. (6 sts)
R3: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts) twice. (8 sts)
R4: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts) twice. (10 sts)
R5: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts) twice. (12 sts)
R6: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts) twice. (14 sts)
R7: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 sts) twice. (16 sts)
R8: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts) twice. (18 sts)
R9: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts) twice. (20 sts)
R10: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts) twice. (22 sts)
R11: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 sts) twice. (24 sts)
R12: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 7 sts) 3 times. (27 sts)
R13: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 8 sts) 3 times. (30 sts)
R14: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts) 3 times. (33 sts)
R15: (2 sc in next st, sc in next 10 sts) 3 times. (36 sts)
Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing, and finish off.
Finishing:
Pin the snout onto the front of your dinosaur's head, in line with rounds 9-14 of the body. Sew the snout in place, adding a little stuffing before attaching it completely.
With black yarn, embroider the eyes using straight stitches. The eyes should sit in line with rounds 11-12 of the head, about 1 stitch away from the snout. You can also use buttons, beads, or safety eyes if you prefer.
Position the legs evenly on the bottom of the dinosaur, roughly between rounds 56 and 62 of the body. Make sure your dinosaur can stand up straight, then sew the legs onto the body, adding a little stuffing to each leg.
Stuff your dinosaur's tail, making sure the stuffing goes all the way to the tip. Pin the tail onto the back of your dinosaur, roughly in line with rounds 50-59 of the body. Sew the tail in place, adding some more stuffing just before closing the hole.
Your big amigurumi brontosaurus is now complete!
You can add this pattern to your queue and favorites on Ravelry. Or share photos of your creation on Instagram using #mohupattern. You'll even have a chance to be featured on our Instagram page!
Copyrights and selling your finished amigurumi:
This crochet pattern, amigurumi design, and all accompanying photos remain the copyright of Lauren Bergstrom of Móhu Store. You may not publish or distribute this pattern, or altered versions of the pattern (including variations, translations and videos), without permission.
You're welcome to sell physical items made from this pattern, as long as you credit Móhu as the designer. For online listings, add a note at the bottom of each listing saying ‘made from a Móhu pattern’ (or something similar). I also appreciate it if you include a link to the pattern, or to mohumohu.com. For selling in person, a small tag with the information on each amigurumi will do.
The amigurumi you sell must be made by an individual person (no production line or mass-production). You may not use my photos to sell your own work.